Restaurant News: Fio's Ristorante
By Melanie Barnard

Special Correspondent

The trend today is racing toward global food fusion. Restaurants meld European and Asian techniques. Scandinavia meets Sicily in one restaurant, and Paris is fused with Polynesia in another. It seems that old-fashioned, straight-forward cooking with pride and heritage is not quite good enough.

It is pleasant to find a restaurant that touts the Italian- American culinary heritage that is a part of Stamford's food history. Though not on the West Side where the legendary Stamford Italian restaurants were concentrated (most except Pellici's now gone), Fio's Ristorante has developed a strong following in a rather unlikely location on Long Ridge Road.

Opened in 2000 as a restaurant/pizzeria, it was reviewed then as a nice place to stop for a brew and a pie. But a few years ago, the owners decided to go in a different direction. They put a lot of time and money into a new look and the result is a charming dining room and comfortable lounge, both centered with a huge, stone, floor- to-ceiling fireplace. In summer, the flower-bedecked outdoor patio is packed nearly every day and evening, though the view is one of a busy road. It is a lovely place to dine, and a waitstaff with the customer in mind has been a main reason for the devoted clientele who regularly frequent Fio's, even though the prices increased to match the decor.

The other big change: drop pizza from the menu and instead focus on traditional Italian-American fare. The menu is updated and contemporary with grilled salmon and pan-seared scallops, honey and Dijon balsamic vinegar-glazed grilled rack of lamb, and Mississippi mud pie for dessert. Like every menu in town, there are also crab cakes, and these are among the more distinctive served with tender, freshly cooked chick peas and roasted red peppers in a silken lobster sauce.

But the real draws here are the classics, such as an appetizer of clams oreganata with oregano in a nicely crisp crumb topping to tender sweet clams. Also high on the old favorite list, and often done poorly in restaurants, is eggplant rollatini. Here, instead of the usual greasy leaden eggplant slices or the nouvelle (and tasteless) baked version, the thinly sliced eggplant is lightly floured, rolled around ricotta and quickly pan-fried, then sauced with a bright, fresh marinara. An especially crisp and golden fried calamari is freshened by being served over a heap of lightly and lemony-dressed mixed greens.

Demonstrating that this kitchen pays attention to detail, the bread is warm and yeasty, the soups rich and homemade - especially the pasta fagiole with al dente pasta and freshly cooked beans and veggies, and the stratiacella with ethereal tiny cheese dumplings and enriched with threads of egg whisked in just before serving. Steamed clams in wine and garlic, and mussels fra diavolo are elevated with fresh herbs, and all of the usual Italian restaurant salad standards are made with care and quality ingredients and vinaigrettes.

In the traditional manner, the main course listings are divided into seafood, veal, chicken, meat and pastas. Veal and chicken are winners with especially light versions of the very simple and very tricky "francese" egg batter and saute that is curiously neither Italian nor French, but very much East Coast American/Italian. With a delicate white wine and lemon sauce, this last-minute preparation is a good test of a kitchen, and here it passes with flying colors. Similarly, chicken and veal are served in a classic Marsala sauce, or with eggplant and prosciutto as Sorrentino. Veal pizzaiola, and chicken scarpariello are variations on a saute with peppers, onions and herbs.

Shrimp is also done Francese style, which treats the delicate seafood better than the Parmiagiana preparation, which is a bit overwhelming with cheese and tomato. Scallops in a Cognac orange sauce and grilled salmon are among the more contemporary updates to a classic menu. Other meat offerings are New York strip steak and pork chops sauced with cherry peppers and mushrooms.

Pastas are consistent winners, and judging from the orders noted at nearby tables, the favorites of the regular customers. All the classics are here, including penne alla vodka, fettuccine Bolognese, linguine with clam sauce, mixed seafood cappelini, and the namesake Fio's rigatoni with homemade chicken sausage, sun-dried tomatoes and broccoli. All pastas are done with care and accents of fresh herbs, good olive oil and a light touch.

Though portions are generous and simply but prettily presented, a la carte side dishes are worthy additions for table sharing. Fried zucchini is crisp and light, sauteed spinach is given a Sicilian sweet-and-sour treatment with raisins and vinegar, mushrooms are sauteed with lots of garlic and herbs, and broccoli rabe is practically a meal in itself.

Desserts are fine with the usual tiramisu, cheesecake and ice creams. Usually mundane as a choice, the cannoli here is the clear winner with a whipped-to-a-cloud and liqueur-spiked ricotta filling in homemade crisp pastry drizzled with excellent chocolate sauce.

Though Fio's Ristorante & Bar is a bit pricier than an old- fashioned Italian family restaurant, it has the same warmth and charm of dining in Italy.